(Post) Lockdown Budapest Rambles

This talk about locals reclaiming their cities now that the throngs of tourists are gone, well, it is real. Forced by circumstance, we took exultingly and frankly excruciatingly long walks. No public transportation and, in a first phase, no restaurant pit stops involved. Up and down the hills of Buda, into the long straights of…

Considerations on an Evening Walk on Margaret Island

Last summer was a traumatic experience for Margaret Island’s tribe of runners: after having heroically made it through the reconditioning of the track, which at least held the promise of a great reward at the end of the suffering, persecution began again in the build up to and during the swimming&other splashy sports world championships….

Fickle Snow- A Morning in Városliget

Not only does snow have a smell, but it also has a very particular way of filtering light as it sneaks into the apartment on winter mornings. In all honestly, calling it light might be an overstatement, it is more a state of darkness that is incomplete, an undecided darkness, a confused darkness, a darkness…

January Fog along the Danube

  Yesterday, while strolling by the Danube, and seeing, in a first phase frankly nothing, and then an odd shape here and there, it dawned on me that I haven’t written a weather complaint based piece for a long time, and since I consider myself pretty good at this exercise, such failings must be promptly corrected,…

Summer’s End in Városliget

The other day it dawned on me that the Budapest exploration project faded a little into the background with the advent of summer. It’s the season I enjoy the most, but also the one I find borderline tiring in its relentless excitement: the travels, the long days when you feel compelled to stay out with…

Andrássy Avenue with a Twist or Two

It all began with the thought that we should have a walk along the stretch of Andrássy which starts at Oktogon and ends at Heroes’ Square- I am completely partial to this bit of the avenue, with its ivy clad villas and stately air, as opposed to the shop and tourist infested half that heads…

A (Not So) Bottomless Lake

Lake Feneketlen (Bottomless) has always been a Budapest mystery to me. Obviously it cannot, should not, must not be bottomless- though here we touch upon another thing I can’t do, which is swim properly, so in all honestly anything above 1.5 metres qualifies as bottomless to me, for if I cannot safely probe the ground…

The Monument of Time Unknown

In spite of the Arctic weather, tempers have been flaring these past days and weeks in Budapest over the thorny matter of the 2024 Olympics. Budapest is still in contention and giant billboards have sprung up all over the city promoting the possible event, which is seen by some as an opportunity to highlight the…

Transition Random- from Summer to Autumn

One day I will probably make peace with the fact that I always run out of schedule with the monthly randoms, but until then I can pretend that at least this time I actually meant the stuff to run over two months, and therefore cover the transition from summer to autumn and such. No, of…