How Berlin Was Made

On the first day God decided that he would need to furnish some new living quarters for himself and went off to IKEA. On the way there he found a second-hand shop specialized in Communist vintage, a lot of abandoned metal and a golden eagle which had belonged to Kaiser Wilhelm. He returned home in…

Never Too Early for Some Morning Mist

  Should you decide that having woken up with the sun on a Sunday morning (or what you assume to be the sun, hidden by a thick veil of golden-yellow mist) you might as well go out for a walk, and some pictures while you’re at it, you will learn some important facts about Budapest…

Procrastinator’s Log Stardate 1018

So it’s the second time in a row I return home without my memory card, probably in my case aging does not bring about loss of memory per se, but loss of memory cards, even though they might of course be somehow interconnected. Horrible pun absolved, let’s get back to why this matters at all. Placebo’s…

(Un)godly Lights over Gellért Hill

There is a category of ideas which look excellent both before the event itself, like a hopeful promise yet to be fulfilled that will surely feel just right when it finally comes to pass and in retrospect, when all the wrinkles and annoyances are smoothed over by the candyfloss hues of remembrance. This category of…

Things You Can’t Do in Vienna in Eight Hours

It’s one of my firm convictions that all those 24, 36, 72 hours in this or that city guides are basically the subversive work of the devil trying and very likely succeeding at ruining your holiday, and probably the rest of your life, but that is another, more metaphysical matter, altogether. There is simply no way…

Sunday Bender in Visegrád

I’ve never met a medieval fortress I liked, or, to be more precise, one I was genuinely impressed with. The problem obviously lies with the fact that novels and history books, paired with an active imagination, raised the bar of what I expected to a level no grouping of ruins, no matter how well maintained,…

Procrastinator’s Log Stardate 0918

One of my biggest regrets in life is not having heard Leonard Cohen, who would have turned 84 on September 21, play live. I know there are far bigger regrets to be had, and perhaps I should count myself fortunate that I fret over something, I wanted to write trivial here and then immediately froze…

Fifty Shades of Blue: Alaçatı and Cunda Island

For the final stretch of our trip we decided to hop south of Izmir, an adventure which also included one intense hour in the centre of Izmir itself, naturally stuck in traffic, through which we learned that keeping your eyes peeled for the highway is an absolute must if you want to avoid the hot…

Along the Turkish Aegean at the Mercy of Whimsical Gods

As touched upon in the installment dedicated to Ayvalık, Turkey’s Northern Aegean coast has been the scene of a flurry of major historic activity, which in turn led to some exciting ruins awaiting visitation in every second village- if you have a partner in crime, that is, but as (un)luck would have it the blog’s industrious…

The Stillness of Quinces- A Visit to Ayvalık

There is a special kind of stillness that you can only ever experience around the Mediterranean, the stillness of summer days around midday, when the light is white and shimmering and thick with heat, and although you know there is movement around, a slight breeze, a cat furtively sliding by on silky paws, someone carefully…