Wienerwald is More Than a Forest

  Some weeks ago I happened to find out that the Budapest railjet now arrives to Vienna’s Hauptbahnof instead of good old Westbahnhof- of course it does make sense to have international trains go to the central station of a capital city, but I could not help feeling stabbed in the back by Vienna’s careless…

The Great Beyond- Trekking in Kamaraerdő and Budafok

A long time ago I used to live in a galaxy far far away, well, not really, merely on the other side of the Danube, in Albertfalva. I like to call this the Albertville period, with overtones of Gauguin’s Tahiti period painting Polynesian beauties, but mostly Ovid’s exile at the Black Sea, pondering on the…

Bridge over Untroubled Waters

Complaining about the Hungarian railway company is a hobby I like to indulge in every now and then, well, basically almost each time I happen to board one of their trains, which is pretty often. The list of their vile endeavours, from trains going suspiciously missing in the countryside to double selling tickets and half…

Berlin Photo Diary- Part Three

So I told you about the Himmel über Berlin (in one of those majestic mash ups your brain is sometimes capable of, I actually wrote Himbeer, which actually sounds exciting in a modern art kind of way) inspired ’atop the Quadriga’ perfect movie moment, here comes the ’atop the Siegesäule’ version. Incidentally, Siegesäule is another word which sounds…

Berlin Photo Diary- Part Two

Berlin is not only about books and films, it’s also about the music. For some it’s Bowie, for others Lou Reed, for others yet Nick Cave– I love them all, but the ultimate Berlin music for me is U2’s Achtung Baby. Their best album by far (in my humble opinion- which generally implies you’re sure…

Berlin Photo Diary- Part One

Since the Internet is awash with factual and practical travel advice about Berlin, I decided it would be pointless to add another spoonful of water to the sea, so I went for a strictly personal diary of photos and impressions which can hopefully still come in handy should someone feel a devastating urge to visit…

Beasts of the Southern Wild

My great chagrin about Western European cities is that they have no cats. Well, they do, they must have some, but their cats are not fully fledged members of the polis, they do not wander around in that self assured way of a feline basking in the knowledge that she owns- the house, the garden,…

Food and Other Glorious Aspects- Belgrade Guide Part Four

There comes a point in your life when you stare into the abyss, and the abyss stares back, smiles, and says hello. More precisely in our case, amidst a refreshing spring shower, it said zdravo. Or so it seemed to me, as I was very focused on it, on its shiny frothy blackness reflecting the…

Everything You Haven’t Come to Expect- Belgrade Guide Part Three

Paris has the Eiffel Tower. London has Big Ben. Rome has the Colosseum. And Belgrade has the weirdly shaped naked man who was shipped up to the fortress so the citizens of the fair capital don’t have to stare at his manhood in the heart of the city, for where it was originally planned. Well,…

Slow Train to Happiness- Belgrade Guide Part Two

As promised then, here it goes, some super practical advice on planning a trip to Belgrade.   How to get there. If you are situated on another continent, on the planet Vulcan or in any of the countries adjacent to Serbia, the fail safe bet is teleportation. Alternatively, if you’re from the 19th century, time…