High Summer in Apricot Country- A Trip to the Wachau

What better way to chase away the gloom of grey midwinter, than by reminiscing about, and perhaps planning, a summer holiday. The seed of this holiday was in fact sown in winter. A few years ago I had watched the New Year’s Concert of the Vienna Philharmonic, parts of which are always illustrated with short…

Hippy Hippos to Doctor Fish- Athens Diaries Continued

There’s a particular subtype of reels, about arrival to Athens airport– just the sliding doors opening, to the backdrop of some longing music. They’re cheesy as hell, but I will invariably watch them again and again, and save them for later. The only thing that beats them is actually arriving to Athens airport-the long labyrinthine…

There and Back Again, and Again: The Hydra Diaries, Continued

It’s no secret that Hydra is not a big place so, when you visit often, and talk/write about it, you will unavoidably start to repeat yourself. I tried to focus on new things that shaped this year’s experience, but when I revisited older texts, I found similar information here and there. If you’re here to…

(Not) Everything is Carved in Stone- A Visit to Matera

The one caveat I had about going to Matera was the bus- I don’t like travelling by bus, as a rule, I will always go for the train, if such a choice is available. I must also mention the fact that when it comes to Southern Italy, most people, both locals and tourists, will opt…

Tapas, Poetry and The Red Fortress- A Visit to Granada

The train ride from Málaga to Granada takes you from the sea to the mountains, through stunning valleys bathed in crisp sunshine and fleeting mist, among vineyards and olive groves, in a brief hour or so. Provided there is no lady, Anna Karenina like, on the rails. But there was, and we waited in the…

House of the Winter Sun- A Visit to Málaga

I stepped on the tarmac of Málaga Costa del Sol airport, and I took a deep, hungry breath. I immediately felt it. Plane exhaust. But beyond it, something unmistakable, tugging at the deepest recesses of my sensory memory. Salty, briny, fragrant, almost like an infusion of moss and minerals. I screamed, internally, like the Greeks…

Arrival with Immediate Departure- A Day in Poros

There is absolutely no way to be polite about this. I went to Poros like the unprepared buffoon that I am- or, more precisely, I can be. Generally speaking, I have two travel modes: full blown OCD and total nihilism, with nothing in between. Either I have a maniacally designed plan, or I just show…

Ever Changing, Ever the Same- Another September in Hydra

As we arrived on the island. A sentence which is, likely, the most commonplace way to start a piece about Hydra. So, as we arrived on the island, the sky was very blue, the sea was very smooth, and the sun was very high above the horizon, steadily beaming salty, furnace-like heat. It was very…