Andrássy Avenue with a Twist or Two

It all began with the thought that we should have a walk along the stretch of Andrássy which starts at Oktogon and ends at Heroes’ Square- I am completely partial to this bit of the avenue, with its ivy clad villas and stately air, as opposed to the shop and tourist infested half that heads…

Spring in the Buda Arboretum

We went into the weekend under the dark auspices of one of those classical Budapest weather forecasts, which claimed that we’d again have two miserable days before spring came back on Monday. But either spring was very stubborn, or the crystal globe was broken, because the sunshine soldiered on.  To fair to the meteorological institute,…

Weekend Walks- Rózsadomb and Bits of the Second District

This was a walk we took in the weekend prior to becoming 100% involved with Sziget, so that is my grand excuse for posting them only now, but let’s say they are still relevant for a possible August 20th festive walk away from the celebratory throngs.   We started off from Moszkva square- where the…

Barlove: Bambi presszó and Mókusch café and deli

During my studies, I spent a considerable time plundering the second hand bookshops of Múzeum körút- few things filled my student’s heart with more joy than deciding it was (yet again) time to skip morphology and go treasure hunting. A very particular category of these treasures was a series of thin pocket books called Our…

Food and Other Glorious Aspects- Belgrade Guide Part Four

There comes a point in your life when you stare into the abyss, and the abyss stares back, smiles, and says hello. More precisely in our case, amidst a refreshing spring shower, it said zdravo. Or so it seemed to me, as I was very focused on it, on its shiny frothy blackness reflecting the…

Everything You Haven’t Come to Expect- Belgrade Guide Part Three

Paris has the Eiffel Tower. London has Big Ben. Rome has the Colosseum. And Belgrade has the weirdly shaped naked man who was shipped up to the fortress so the citizens of the fair capital don’t have to stare at his manhood in the heart of the city, for where it was originally planned. Well,…

Slow Train to Happiness- Belgrade Guide Part Two

As promised then, here it goes, some super practical advice on planning a trip to Belgrade.   How to get there. If you are situated on another continent, on the planet Vulcan or in any of the countries adjacent to Serbia, the fail safe bet is teleportation. Alternatively, if you’re from the 19th century, time…

A Lovely Big Mess- Belgrade Guide Part One

Due to the great popularity of Greek travel advice (it’s early in the morning, the storm is over, and I just had coffee, so I can afford to be a bit smug, I’d say), I decided to give the same several installment treatment to Belgrade- which is definitely less of a tourist attraction than the Greek islands, but…